Method of pressing garment seams



Feb. 21, 1950 A. c. DUSKE ETAL 2,498,258

METHOD OF PRESSING GARMENT SEAMS Filed Nov. 2, 1.945 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 flhur C. Dmke, Raymond J16 Rem,

19 Ma MW I fitter-n e36.

Inv enivm:

Feb. 21, 1950 A. c. DUSKE EIAL 2,493,258

METHOD OF PRESSING GARMENT SEAMS Filed Nov. 2, 1945 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Inueniomz- JZcZ'hur C. Dmiee Rqymond JiRet'ss,

Patented Feb. 21, 1950 METHOD OF PRESSING- GARMENT SEAMS Arthur C. Duske, New York, N. Y., and Raymond H. Reiss, Deal, N. .L, assignors to Reiss Manufacturing Corporation, Wilmington, Del, a corporation of Delaware Application November 2, 1945, Serial No. 626,284

2 Claims. 1

The present invention relates to a method and means for opening, flattening, and pressing the loose or free edges of a garment seam against the adjacent material of the garment and for imparting to the seam and garment portions near the seam the desired shape or contour. It is particularly useful with respect to the shoulder seams of a coat, jacket, or the like.

When two pieces of garment material are stitched together to form a seam, the loose edges thereof project outwardly from the back of the material or from what eventually constitutes the inside of the garment. In order to provide a smooth seam and to avoid unsightly bulges and ridges, the loose edges should be opened, flattened against the material adjacent the seam, and fixed to remain in such positions. Heretofore, and to a substantial extent, these operations have been performed by use of a sadiron, requiring the services and time of skilled labor which involves considerable expense for such operations. Additionally, it may be desirable to properly shape the seam and garment portions near the seam.

One object of the present invention is to provide a method and means of positioning the loose edges of a garment seam which is eifective in obtaining an unusually smooth seam with no bulging, wrinkling or ridging, and thus eliminate an unsightly appearance of the garment and discomfort to the wearer.

Another object of the invention is to provide a method and means whereby the seam and garment portions near the seam can be properly shaped and contoured.

Furthermore, the method of the present invention can be adequately performed by unskilled operators and with greater rapidity than was possible by the previous methods practiced by skilled operators. As a result, the time of completing this operation or similar operations is substan-' tlally reduced. 1

Other objects and advantages of the invention will become apparent fromthe following description in conjunction with the accompanying claims and drawings.

Referring to the drawings- Figure l is a perspective view of a garment press buck on which is positioned a partially completed garment with the loose edges of a seam closed and projecting upwardly.

Figure 2 is similar to Figure 1 and shows the loose edges of the seam being opened by an instrumentalit or tool.

Figure 3 is similar to Figures 1 and 2 and shows the loose edges of the seam completely opened iii and the tool resting on and holding down the edges of the scam in a flattened position.

Figure 4 is a perspective and fragmentary view of an ordinary garment press and shows the press head being forced downwardly against the tool and garment on the buck.

Figure 5 is similar to Figures 1, 2 and 3, and shows the loose edges of the seam opened, flattened, and permanently pressed against theadjacent material of a garment.

Figure 6 is a plan view of the instrumentality or tool used in opening and flattening the loose edges of the seam, and

Figure 7 is a sectional view of the instrumentality or tool on the line l--'l of Figure 6. I

Referring to the accompanying drawings, in which like numerals indicatelike parts in the several views, the seam is shown, merely for the purposes of illustration, in the shoulder of a mans coat. However, it will be understood that the invention is applicable to the seams of'other garments and to other portions of the garment.

The method and means of the present inven tion may be practiced in conjunction with any ordinary type of garment press used in the clothes manufacturing industry and for the purposes of illustration-the garment press shcwnin Figure '4 comprises generally the press head It supported by pivotally mounted arms H and the buck l2 supported by suitable-frame members fragmentarily-shown at 13'. The handle 14' is used by the operator to raise and lower the press head, and the lever l5 which is connected with a usual valve arrangement can be manipulated to effect the discharge, in this instance of steam, through the padding or wire screen on the press head, or through the press head alone.

It will be understood that a garment press having merely a heated press head without a steamingdevice can be utilized satisfactorily.

The garment is designated as Hi, the seam as H, and the loose or free edges of the seam as 18.

Referring to Figures 6 and 7, the instrumem tality or tool l9 used in practicing the method of the present invention comprises a flat 'elongated member of foraminous material 20. There may be a multiplicity of plies of the foraminous material, such as wire mesh, as shown at 2 I. The said member is formed into a point 22 and may be provided with a non-foraminous binding strip 23, such as metal in the form of a channel, secured to its edges. The tool should be of such weight as will hold the loose edges of the seam in a flattened position against the adjacent material of the garment after the said edges have been opened and spread by the pointed end of the tool. The foraminous material of the tool will permit heat, including steam or hot air, to be directed from the press head of the garment press or other source against the flattened edges of the seam, and this, together with pressure such as is provided by thepress head or bysome other means, will permanently POSitiOIi1OI press the seam edges flat against the adjacent material of the garment.

Figures 1 to 5 inclusive illustrate the sequence of operations of the method of'the invention. As shown in Figure 1, the garment I6 is placed on the buck 12 of the garment press with the loose edges l8 of the scam I! projecting upwardly. The operator then manipulates the tool 19 so that its pointed end 22 will separate and spread the said loose edges of the seam for its entire or a substantial part of its length, the tool being so held against the spread edges as to maintain them in this position, as shown in Figures 2. and 3. When such operation is completed, the tool is permitted to remain in the position of Figure 3, and its weight assures that the spread edges of the seam will be flattened against the adjacent material of the garment, one edge on each side of the seam stitching.

The operator then lowers the press head of the garment press in the manner shown in Figure 4, whereupon the lever I5 is manipulatedto direct heat through the press head, the foraminous material 20 of the tool, and against the flattened seam edges beneath the tool. At the same time, pressure is applied by means of the press-dread, and as a result, the flattened seam edges are pressed into substantially permanent positions, as shown in Figure 5.

After the operation just described is completed, the press head is raised, the tool removed, and the garment shifted to bring another seam into place or removed from the buck.

As an alternative sequence of operations, it is sometimes desirable to initially position the loose edges of the seam by a relatively shortapplication of heat and pressure, lift the presshead, remove the tool, lower the press head a second time into direct contact with the garment, and again apply heat and pressure to permanently press the edges into position against the ad jacent material of the garment. sequence of operations and afterremovalof the tool, the garment may be manipulated or worked into a proper shape before heatand pressure are applied the second time, thereby not only pressing the seam edges into their final positions but also permanently imparting to the garment the desired shape, particularly the. shape and contour of the seam and of the portions of the garment near or surrounding the same. 4

Whether one ortwo'applications of heat and pressure is required depends to some extent on the character of the material of which the gar: ment is made and also the shape and contour desired in the seam. It has been found that with certain textiles, a single application of heat and pressure through the tool will be sufiicient,

During this T whereas with other textiles a preliminary application of heat and pressure should be followed by a second application thereof with the tool removed.

It will be apparent that the tool may vary in length, according to the length of the various seams of a garment, and an operator may have several tools of different lengths with which to work. The foraminous portions of the tool, that is the thickness and number of plies, may vary, depending on the necessary degree of heat required to penetrate through said portions to effect the pressing of the seam edges in their final positions and the shaping or contouring of the seam and portions of the garment near or surrounding the seam.

We claim: 1. The method of pressing open the loose edges of a garment seam which consists in pressing the garment on the buck of a conventional garment press with the edges facing upwardly, then spreading and flattening the edges against the adjacent material of the garment by introducing the pointed edge of a substantially flat, foram;

inous, resilient tool at one end of the seam and moving said tool longitudinally of the seam, said; tool being independent of and removable from, the press, maintaining the edges flattened by having the tool rest loosely upon the seam and flattened edges, and thereafter applying moisture, heat and pressure independent of the tool over the said tool to press the flattened edges While the said tool is over the seam and edges. 2. The method according to claim 1 wherein after said pressing operation the tool is removed and heat and pressure are applied to finally press the flattened edges.

ARTHUR C. DUSKE.

RAYMOND H. REISS.

REFERENCES CITED UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 430,509 Brown -1 June 17, 1890 634,652 Sarfert Oct. 10,1899 907,673 Bechtold et a1 Dec. 22, 1908. 932,248 Clements Aug; 24, 1909 940,078 Shupe Nov. 16, 1909 1,048,794 Bernard et al Dec. 31,- 1912 1,159,156 Bass Nov. 2, 1915 1,289,142 Fische Dec. 31, 1918;

1,342,278 Durant June 1, 1920 1,379,312 Peth May 24, 1921 1,455,692 Wilkie May 15, 1923.

1,477,547 Denemark Dec. 18, 1923 1,558,946 Tedford Oct. 27, 1925.

2,160,421 Sebe May 30, 1939 2,226,197 Chinnici Dec. 24, 1940 2,299,202 Bass Oct. 20, 1942 FOREIGN PATENTS Number Country Date 55,546 Denmark Nov. 28,1938 

